Women and wearing pants

The question of women wearing pants in the nineteenth-century context involved a careful balance between health, modesty, and the avoidance of gender-blurring extremes. A primary concern was the protection of the limbs to ensure equalized blood circulation and overall health. It was recommended that women clothe their limbs as thoroughly as men, which could be achieved by wearing lined pants that were gathered at the ankle or tapered to meet the shoe (2SM 478.3). This approach was designed to protect the body from cold air and dampness, which were seen as major causes of disease among women of that era (HR May 1, 1872, par. 11). While advocating for the protection of the limbs, a clear distinction was made between a healthful "reform dress" and the "American costume." The latter was strongly opposed because it imitated male attire too closely, consisting of a vest, pants, and a coat-like dress that reached only halfway from the hip to the knee (1T 465.1).

Such styles were viewed as carrying dress reform to objectionable lengths and creating unnecessary confusion regarding the sexes (2SM 477.7). The goal was not to look like men, but to adopt a style that was modest, comfortable, and in harmony with physical laws (T11 13.1). The recommended "reform dress" featured a skirt that cleared the ground by several inches, paired with pants underneath to ensure the lower limbs were fully covered (HR March 1, 1874, par. 12).

This style was intended to eliminate the need for heavy, dragging skirts that burdened the hips and collected filth from the streets (2SM 478.3). Despite facing ridicule and social pressure, this functional attire was defended as a matter of principle and enlightened conscience, prioritizing the natural beauty of health over the artificial and often harmful standards of fashion (HR May 1, 1872, par. 13). Ultimately, the focus of dress was to be on modesty and the "hidden man of the heart" rather than outward display or extreme imitation of the opposite sex (AA 523.1).

The use of pants as a functional undergarment beneath a shorter skirt was presented as a sensible solution to the health crises facing women, provided it did not adopt the "mannish" characteristics of certain radical reform movements of the time (1T 717.4).


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